As the leaves turn and the air becomes crisp, autumn arrives with its signature earthy flavors, rich textures, and nostalgic warmth. For chef Emily Roux, autumn isn’t just about the change in seasons; it’s a time to explore the seasonal ingredients that mark this time of year. This season, she’s prepared two mouthwatering starter dishes that capture the essence of autumn while offering a comforting yet sophisticated experience. From a velvety butter bean soup paired with earthy mushrooms and tangy pickled onions to tender squid with vibrant padrón peppers and toasted almonds, Roux’s creations are the perfect way to start an autumn meal.
Butter Bean Velouté with Mixed Mushrooms and Pickled Onions
This first dish is a celebration of the autumnal harvest, bringing together creamy butter beans, a medley of wild mushrooms, and a tangy pickle to brighten the deep flavors of the season.
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Pickling Time: 2 hours
Cook Time: 40 minutes
Serves: 4
For the Pickled Onions:
- 1 small red onion, peeled
- 300ml cider vinegar
- 3 tbsp golden caster sugar
- 1 tbsp salt
- 6 black peppercorns
For the Butter Bean Velouté:
- 700g jar of large butter beans
- 50g olive oil
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- Finely grated zest of ½ lemon
- Salt and pepper to taste
For the Mushrooms:
- 50g oyster mushrooms
- 50g shiitake mushrooms
- 50g girolles
- Olive oil
- 20g butter
- 1 garlic clove, peeled and bashed
To Serve:
- 1 tbsp pumpkin seeds
- 1 pinch espelette pepper
- 30g curly parsley, chopped
- Crispy chili oil (optional)
Method:
- Pickle the Onions:
Start by thinly slicing the red onion into rings and placing them in a sieve. Combine the cider vinegar, sugar, salt, and peppercorns in a saucepan and bring it to a simmer. Stir until the sugar and salt dissolve, then remove from heat. Boil some water in a kettle, pour it over the onion rings, and let them drain and cool. Once they’re cool to the touch, pack the onion rings into a sterilized jar and pour the pickling liquid over them. Seal and let the onions steep for at least two hours. The longer they steep, the more intense their flavor. - Prepare the Velouté:
Drain the butter beans and set aside a few whole beans to use as a garnish later. Place the rest of the beans into a blender with olive oil, lemon juice, and zest, and blend until smooth. Add a splash of water if needed to achieve a creamy, velvety texture. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then blitz again. The velouté can be served at room temperature or gently warmed. - Cook the Mushrooms:
Wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp cloth, then slice them into equal-sized pieces. Heat some olive oil in a large frying pan over high heat, and once hot, add all the mushrooms. Cook for a couple of minutes until they begin to crisp and take on some color. Add the butter and garlic, then season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking for another two minutes until the mushrooms are browned, then remove from the pan and place them on a plate lined with kitchen paper to soak up any excess moisture. - Toast the Pumpkin Seeds:
Place the pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet and toast them in a 180°C (160°C fan)/350°F/gas mark 4 oven for 12 minutes, then season them immediately with salt and espelette pepper. - Assemble the Dish:
To serve, divide the cooked mushrooms and reserved whole butter beans into four soup bowls. Pour the velouté into the bowls at the table for added flair, then top with the pickled onions, toasted seeds, and freshly chopped parsley. If desired, drizzle with extra olive oil or crispy chili oil for a little extra kick.
Squid with Padrón Peppers and Toasted Almonds
For a lighter, more vibrant dish, this second recipe brings together tender squid, mild padrón peppers, and crispy toasted almonds, all heightened by the flavors of sesame oil, lime, and fresh thyme.
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Marinate Time: 8 hours+
Cook Time: 25 minutes
Serves: 4
For the Squid and Peppers:
- 500g cleaned and gutted sustainably-sourced squid
- 12 padrón peppers
- 1 red chili
- 2 tsp sesame oil
- Zest and juice of ½ lime
- 1 tbsp finely chopped garlic
- 1 sprig fresh thyme, leaves picked
- 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
- 50ml cooking sake
To Finish:
- 30g flaked almonds
- 4 thick slices of sourdough bread
- Finely grated zest of ½ lemon
- 1 sprig fresh coriander, leaves picked and chopped
Method:
- Marinate the Squid:
Cut the squid into triangles and place them in a bowl. Slice the padrón peppers and red chili thinly, then add them to the bowl along with sesame oil, lime zest and juice, garlic, thyme leaves, and olive oil. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge to marinate for at least eight hours, or overnight for best results. The longer the squid marinates, the more the flavors will develop. - Toast the Almonds:
Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan)/425°F/gas mark 7. Place the almonds on a baking tray and toast them for around five minutes, or until golden. Once done, remove them from the oven and set them aside. - Grill the Sourdough:
Drizzle olive oil over the slices of sourdough and grill them until they are crisp and golden on both sides. Set aside. - Cook the Squid:
Heat a large frying pan over high heat. Add a drizzle of olive oil and, once hot, add the marinated squid and peppers along with all the marinade. Toss constantly for no more than two minutes—overcooking the squid will make it tough. Season to taste. - Deglaze the Pan:
Once the squid and peppers are cooked, remove them from the pan and set them aside. Pour the cooking sake into the pan and let it bubble and reduce to create a flavorful sauce. - Assemble the Dish:
Place the grilled sourdough slices on a warm plate and spoon the squid and peppers mixture over the top. Finish with the toasted almonds, a sprinkle of lemon zest, and fresh coriander. Serve immediately while hot.
Conclusion:
These two autumn starters from Emily Roux not only showcase the vibrant flavors of the season but also offer an opportunity to explore some of the best ingredients autumn has to offer. The butter bean velouté with its smooth texture and earthy mushroom medley pairs beautifully with the tangy pickled onions, while the squid with padrón peppers delivers a burst of flavor that perfectly complements the warmth of the autumn season. Whether you’re preparing these dishes for a light lunch or as starters for a larger meal, they bring together a harmony of textures and flavors that are bound to impress.
With each bite, these recipes evoke the comforting essence of autumn and remind us that food is often as much about memories as it is about flavor. From the crispy autumn leaves to the roasted chestnuts that fill the air, these dishes embrace the warmth, nostalgia, and bounty of the season.
