For centuries, Indigenous communities across North America have considered dentalium shells not just a precious adornment, but a symbol of cultural pride, respect, and status. In the modern Native fashion world, these shells—long, tubular structures originating from a type of marine mollusk—have grown so valuable that they are now considered more precious than diamonds. To some, they are not just shells; they are treasured heirlooms, cultural artifacts, and even family legacies.
One of the reasons why dentalium shells are so revered is their scarcity. In recent years, sourcing these beautiful shells has become increasingly difficult, driving their value even higher. Indigenous artists and designers like Tania Larsson, Jamie Okuma, and Keri Ataumbi are at the forefront of bringing dentalium shells into contemporary jewelry, and they know just how rare and significant these shells are. With climate change affecting ocean ecosystems and depleting local populations of dentalium, finding the perfect shell has become a rare and precious pursuit. But the scarcity of dentaliums is only part of the story. Their deep cultural significance and rich history make them priceless in ways that far surpass traditional gemstones.
The History of Dentalium Shells and Their Cultural Significance
Dentalium shells have been used by Indigenous communities across North America for thousands of years, long before European colonization. They were particularly prized by tribes along the Pacific Northwest coast, such as the Kwakwaka’wakw and the Nuu-chah-nulth, who lived near the ocean and could harvest the shells directly from the sea. Over time, the trade networks of Indigenous peoples extended these precious shells far beyond the coast, as they were exchanged with tribes across North America, including the Lakota and Ojibwe, who used them in jewelry, ceremonial garments, and even as currency.
The shells, which resemble tusks due to their curved shape and milky-white color, were highly coveted for their unique beauty. They were used to decorate clothing, headdresses, and ceremonial regalia, and they often symbolized wealth and social status. However, the display of wealth was never an indication of greed. Instead, it was a form of generosity. The more dentalium shells a person had, the more likely they were to be regarded with high esteem within their community. Those who did good deeds and contributed to the welfare of the group were often gifted rare items like dentalium shells.
These shells, more than just ornamental, were woven into the very fabric of Indigenous culture. They were often used in powwow regalia, where they served as symbols of prestige and respect. Over time, their use extended beyond traditional clothing and became a part of contemporary Native fashion. Today, dentalium shells are still used to create intricate, eye-catching jewelry and accessories that blend traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibilities.
The Rarity and Value of Dentalium Shells
For artists and jewelers like Tania Larsson, finding the right dentalium shells has become a difficult and often frustrating search. A few years ago, Larsson—a Gwich’in jeweler—was on a mission to find dentalium shells for a new line of jewelry. She scoured her usual sources, only to find that they were completely depleted of the shells. After an exhaustive search, she received a call from a seller who had a rare collection available. Without hesitation, Larsson purchased every single shell. She knew that finding dentalium shells, especially ones of the quality she was looking for, was a rare opportunity.
The shells’ value is determined by a variety of factors: their age, patina, length, thickness, and smoothness. Each shell is unique, and its beauty can lie in its size, luster, or even in its distinctive greenish hue. Some of the most sought-after shells are antique ones, particularly those from North America. These shells are prized for their thickness, length, and the rich patina they have developed over time. According to Larsson, “My most valuable shells are antique ones from North America, because those are thick and long. Those are not even like diamonds—they’re one-in-a-million.”
Dentalium shells are sold by weight, often fetching hundreds of dollars per pound. The rarest shells can even cost upwards of $50 each, depending on their size and condition. The rising cost and rarity of dentalium shells have made them a coveted material for Native artists and designers who continue to incorporate them into their work, despite the challenges of sourcing them.
Modern Indigenous Artists Embrace Dentalium Shells
While dentalium shells have a deep-rooted place in traditional Indigenous clothing and jewelry, many contemporary Native artists are reviving the material in new, innovative ways. Designers like Jamie Okuma, Keri Ataumbi, and Larsson are incorporating dentalium shells into modern fine jewelry, mixing traditional motifs with contemporary designs. These designers understand the unique cultural significance of the shells and treat them with the respect they deserve.
Jamie Okuma, known for her striking tiered dentalium earrings, has created pieces that have been worn by celebrities like Lily Gladstone on the red carpet. Okuma emphasizes how rare it is to find good-quality dentalium shells and how they are carefully sourced. “For the dentalium earrings I’m making now, they’re from somebody’s stash from about 20 years ago, and I bought those 10 years ago,” Okuma says. The shells she uses are treated as precious, finite materials, used sparingly and thoughtfully.
Keri Ataumbi, another prominent designer, treats her dentalium shells as family heirlooms. “I still have the shells my mother had in her sewing supplies, and will only use them for pieces meant for my family,” Ataumbi explains. The shells she inherited have a deep patina and luster, qualities that newer shells often lack. These older shells, handed down through generations, hold not only artistic value but familial and cultural significance.
Climate Change and the Depletion of Dentalium Shells
In addition to their increasing rarity due to overharvesting, climate change has also affected the availability of dentalium shells. Shifting ocean temperatures have caused populations of dentalium mollusks to move, with some populations now being found in the Arabian Sea rather than their native Pacific habitats. This shift in geography has made it even more difficult for Native artists and traders to source these prized materials, further driving up the price and demand.
Despite these challenges, dentalium shells remain a crucial part of Native fashion and culture. The scarcity of these shells only makes them more valuable, both as artistic materials and as cultural symbols. As the population of dentalium mollusks continues to decline, artists like Larsson, Okuma, and Ataumbi are working to preserve the tradition of using these shells while also adapting to the challenges of a changing world.
The Legacy of Dentalium Shells in Native Fashion
Dentalium shells have transcended their role as simple ornaments and have become powerful symbols of heritage, status, and cultural pride. Their scarcity has only amplified their value, and their continued use in Native fashion today speaks to the resilience of Indigenous culture. These shells are not just decorative; they are pieces of history, cultural artifacts, and symbols of a deep connection to the land and the sea. For contemporary Native artists, dentalium shells remain a vital link to the past—a way of honoring tradition while pushing the boundaries of modern fashion.
As the demand for dentalium shells continues to rise, their significance will likely only grow. They are more than just valuable materials; they are an enduring representation of Native history, resilience, and creativity, making them priceless in ways that go far beyond any diamond or precious gem.
