In the vibrant world of global fashion, Shanghai has increasingly emerged as a creative hub for cutting-edge design. Among the new wave of talent in the city is Chinese designer Jingwei Yin, whose brand Oude Waag has been quietly but steadily building a reputation since its founding in 2017. From his first debut at Shanghai Fashion Week to now standing as one of the city’s most talked-about names, Yin’s work is gaining global recognition. With his sights firmly set on the West, Oude Waag’s evolution is emblematic of a new era of Chinese fashion—one that blends Western techniques with a deep-rooted cultural identity.
Yin’s latest collection, Spring/Summer 2026, presented at the trendy Labelhood venue in Shanghai, embodied the designer’s signature dark, sensual aesthetic. As smoke billowed across the runway and models strutted in sculptural gowns, sharp tailoring, and fluid one-shoulder dresses, it became clear that Oude Waag is defining a fresh approach to Chinese design—one that is bold, sophisticated, and deeply connected to both culture and craftsmanship.
The Roots of Oude Waag
Born and raised in Chengdu, a free-spirited city known for its artistic community, Jingwei Yin was always drawn to fashion as a form of expression. His path to founding Oude Waag was unconventional. After completing a fashion design BA at Central Saint Martins (CSM) in London, Yin went on to study under the tutelage of renowned designers Hussein Chalayan and Haider Ackermann. These experiences were transformative, shaping his design philosophy and providing him with valuable hands-on skills in draping and pattern-making. In an industry where many designers have become distanced from the physicality of garment creation, Yin’s approach remains rooted in craftsmanship.
His design process begins with draping on his own body—a technique he inherited from his time working with small ateliers, where designers like Chalayan personally shaped their pieces. “I always drape myself first,” Yin explains, drawing a parallel to Rick Owens’ famous comment: “Everyone’s hand is different.” For Yin, draping is not just a technique, but a personal process. “I start my collections from my own hand,” he smiles, revealing how deeply intertwined his identity is with his work.
Challenges in the Beginning
The initial years of Oude Waag were tough, with Yin often struggling to gain recognition in a market saturated with streetwear. Back in 2017, Shanghai’s fashion scene was dominated by oversized, street-inspired silhouettes, making Yin’s body-conscious designs—such as bodysuits and leggings—a hard sell. He recalls the early days of his brand with a chuckle: “My area [at Labelhood] was always empty. Back then, everyone was into streetwear, and I was doing something completely different. It took three seasons for people to understand me.”
However, Yin’s persistence paid off. He remained committed to his vision, and by 2022, Oude Waag had expanded to 40 stockists across China and key global markets. As a result, the brand built a loyal fanbase among the young, fashion-forward elite of Shanghai and beyond, particularly in high-end concept stores.
A Shift Toward Western Markets
Oude Waag’s steady growth is reflected not just in its domestic success, but also in its growing presence on the international stage. Yin’s move to expand into Western markets, particularly Europe and the U.S., marks a significant milestone for the brand. While European retail giants such as H Lorenzo and Selfridges already stock his collections, Yin’s recent celebrity endorsements from Teyana Taylor, Megan Thee Stallion, and Charlize Theron have brought new attention to the brand.
With these high-profile endorsements, the Shanghai-based designer is gaining traction in markets that have been traditionally more resistant to Chinese brands. Yin acknowledges the importance of international recognition but remains cautious in his approach. “We grow slowly, and we want to work with the best stores,” he says. For now, he’s selectively partnering with global retailers to avoid overexposure while cultivating a brand image that is as much about longevity as it is about creativity.
Adapting to a Changing Landscape
The global fashion industry is no stranger to uncertainty. Following the disruptions of the pandemic, many brands faced challenges, and Oude Waag was no exception. The downturn in wholesale sales after lockdowns forced Yin to rethink his business strategy. Rather than relying solely on traditional retail channels, he made a decisive move into the digital space by launching an official store on the Chinese e-commerce platform Tmall in 2024.
The shift towards direct-to-consumer (DTC) has already paid off. “When we started, we really didn’t expect DTC to become such a large part of our business,” Yin admits. “But now, less than a year after launching, direct sales make up over half of our total revenue.” This success can be attributed to the brand’s relatively accessible price range, from €100 to €1,000, which aligns well with current consumer demand for affordable luxury.
Despite the challenges of the post-lockdown market, Oude Waag has shown remarkable resilience. By focusing on exclusive collaborations, being selective with retail partners, and developing its own online sales channel, the brand has managed to weather a turbulent market landscape.
Looking to the Future: Paris, Middle East, and Beyond
As Oude Waag continues its expansion, Paris remains a key focus. The brand’s showroom in Paris, opened two years ago, was ahead of its time, Yin explains. But with a growing global following and increased interest from buyers, the brand is planning a return to the City of Light for future sales campaigns. However, Yin is not rushing the process. “The key is not to overexpose ourselves,” he emphasizes, “but to be very selective with the retailers we work with.”
The Middle East is also emerging as a promising market. While adapting the designs for a more modest audience could pose challenges, Yin and his team are open to exploring this new frontier. “The interest is there, but we have to be delicate,” says Sasha Krymova, Oude Waag’s Madrid-based sales agent. Maintaining the brand’s signature boldness while respecting cultural norms is something the team is working to achieve, ensuring that Oude Waag can break into new markets without compromising its core identity.
Social media has also become a significant focus for Yin. Despite Instagram being banned in China, the brand is working hard to build its presence on international platforms. Celebrity endorsements, such as Charlize Theron’s appearance on Jimmy Kimmel Live wearing Oude Waag, have created opportunities for organic growth, particularly as celebrities tag the brand in their posts. Yin is still adapting to the social media game, but with the help of his international PR team, Oude Waag is slowly carving out a name for itself online.
Redefining Chinese Fashion
What sets Oude Waag apart is its ability to merge Western tailoring traditions with modern Chinese sensibilities. As Yin puts it, the goal of his generation of designers is not only to create commercially successful brands but also to push the boundaries of creativity and culture. “Our generation has the opportunity to change the way people understand Chinese designers,” he says. “We deserve brands that are not just commercially successful but also creatively groundbreaking.”
With a rich cultural heritage, a clear design philosophy, and a carefully curated international strategy, Oude Waag is poised to be one of the most influential Chinese fashion brands of the next decade. As Jingwei Yin continues to navigate the complexities of global markets, one thing is clear: the future of Chinese design is in capable hands.
